After seeing Harvey House featured on Top Chef Season 21, Episode 5, it felt like a place I had to finally get to. It’s been on my list, and on our Restaurant page, for some time but a visit had been long overdue. It certainly did not disappoint.

First, let me admit something to you, dear reader. I was so excited to get here, I scheduled our visit for my wedding anniversary dinner…for the wrong day. Yep! As we were sitting in the hotel waiting to head over to dinner, I realized I had made it for the next evening, after we would have already have headed home. A look online, completely booked for the night. A frantic call to the restaurant, and they graciously offered to find us a spot. So before I had walked in the door, I was inclined to love this place. But the meal that followed hit every note perfectly for a modern take on the classic supper club vibe.

Of course we started with an Old Fashioned. Could a supper club dinner start any other way? (Well actually, the manager brought us a glass of Prosecco to celebrate our anniversary as we looked over the menu. I’m telling you, this was a great experience!) The Call Me Old Fashioned was rye, Amaro Montenegro, and bitters. Classic, solid opener.

Keeping it classic, next was the relish tray – vegetables as well as bread & butter pickles and pickled green beans with a whipped ranch dip, devilled eggs, a smoked salmon dip with house-made pretzel crackers. Each item classic, but each item elevated. The whipped ranch was flavorful, but such a light texture. The house pretzel crackers were awesome with the smoked salmon spread.

This is exactly what I think of when I think Great Lakes Cuisine – traditional foods updated in elegant, surprising, innovative ways. And it got better.

This simple looking dish was a show stopper. The Lake Superior walleye was pan seared in butter with a rye cracker on the bottom, ladled with the hot butter until cooked through and then served cracker side up. That’s spaetzle on the right, presumably green with addition of Savoy cabbage. If you’ve followed along at home, you know we love our spaetzle. And then the real touch of brilliance – a horseradish sabayon.

Yes! A horseradish sabayon! A recent trip to Japan opened my eyes to the difference between the palate enhancing qualities of fresh grated wasabi and the harsher bite of prepared wasabi. I wondered then – Could fresh grated horseradish be similar? Only a few months later I had my clear answer, yes.

This horseradish sabayon was not the bracing bite of horseradish we may actually prize in our bloody mary cocktails or a prime rib sauce. No, this had all the palate enhancing qualities of fresh wasabi experienced with some of the finest sushi in Kyoto. It opened up the nasal passages, creating a sensation of heightened aroma and therefore flavor.

Because I’m a bit obsessive, the very next day I bought fresh and prepared horseradish while still in Madison, intent on exploring this approach further at home and confirmed the unique difference in freshly grated horseradish. But that is for a future post.

The rye cracker with the super-light texture of the horseradish sabayon was magical. That is a brilliant flavor combination. It’s a wonderful example of Great Lakes Cuisine and it alone makes the trip to Harvey House worth it. But there are also a myriad of other supper club classics that have been elevated to another level, from the Coq Au Vin with Nueske’s bacon to the Bacon wrapped Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage, chestnut confit, and apple ale jus. Or the Roasted Pumpkin Crème Brulee to the Pink Squirrel and Brandy Alexander.

The setting is an old train station and train car updated to a modern, low-lit, chic feel. The service is amazing and the dishes are all Great Lakes Cuisine. Hope you enjoy as mush as we did. (And do double check your reservation date!)